Zagat's is out -- and Queens is on top

I love to complain about Zagat's. It can be so glib. It's subject to the whims and trends of finicky diners (especially in New York). I hate how it's such a shorthand for food, reducing everything to a numerical score. All too frequently the score is a reflection of what a bunch of diners think about what the New York Times critics think. A friend of mine likes to mock restaurants that put a big "Zagat Rated" display in their front window. "It's like saying 'We're in the phone book'! Who cares? It's meaningless!"

Nevertheless, in the jungle of NYC kitchens and tables, it can be a useful guide. I'm happy to see Queens is represented well in the latest version of the guide, which gives major props to Trattoria L'incontro, Sapori D'Ischia, Sripraphai, and Tournesol.